Czech Mate

June 15, 2014

Again, for those who may just be reading this blog for the first time, I am a four-year expat living on the coast of Ecuador, in the town Olón, but now on a two month trip to Europe (primarily Germany) to visit my daughters and grandchildren living here.

My daughter Kacie took some vacation time when I arrived in Germany a few weeks ago, to help me get acquainted with my surroundings, and the kids’ routines (Clara/3-yrs and Chloe/6-mo).

Then we took a wonderful 5 night/4 day jaunt to Prague, Czech Republic  – around 5-6 hours from here (not counting stops to change and feed kids).

We stayed in the luxurious “Royal Suite” at the Hotel Residence Retezova, located adjacent to the Bethlehem Chapel in Old Town Prague.  Our suite was on third floor, and had downstairs and upstairs living areas:  2 bedrooms, 2 baths, a fully stocked kitchen, a gorgeous high-beamed living room with fireplace, and the second level came appointed with a comfortable loft den, and an outdoor balcony overlooking the chapel.
What a treat it was! 
Additionally, the staff there was wonderful and couldn't have been more accommodating, understanding, and helpful -- especially since we had such young children with us.



One view of the room



View of Bethlehem Chapel
from our outdoor balcony

Clara eyeballing the bidet for a drink

Prague is a stunningly beautiful city, with its many churches, castles, and spectacular architecture, but with a toddler in tow, and a nursing infant, we were only able to get a “taste” of the town, and somewhat limited to the sites we were able to see.  It is very much a “walkable” city, but not so much with one in a stroller, and a nursing baby in a carrier.

Another challenge was the language (I know virtually “nada” in German, and the Czech language and signs had me completely stymied. Fortunately, many Europeans speak English).  Also, although the Czech Republic is on the Euro currency system (and is accepted), the Czech “Koruna” was the preferred cash used in most shops, museums, and restaurants we visited, so I had to make several trips to local money exchange locations to trade in my Euros for that coinage…once again, all the paper bills in either currency looked like “play” money to me, and a little difficult for me to figure out exactly what I was spending from a dollar perspective.

And may I also say – it’s been quite an adjustment to be in these surrounding after four years of living in the little fishing village of Olón, Ecuador...bit of a culture shock.

One of the first sites we headed out to see was the medieval astronomical clock located in Old Town Square. The clock was first installed in 1410, making it the third-oldest astronomical clock in the world and the oldest one still working.  Every hour, the clock chimes and four symbolic figures are set in motion, along with doors that open above the clock displaying the Apostles as they pass by. Crowds gather each hour in the square below and neighboring restaurant balconies to watch the presentation.



The Astronomical Clock

Old Town Square is just a fun place to hang out, with musicians and street-act performances (which reminded me somewhat of New Orleans and San Francisco scenes), and we went there often during our stay, (usually enjoying cappuccinos in the plaza, but one afternoon we enjoyed the view and lunch from the terrace balcony of the “Hotel U Prince” hotel).

The Charles Bridge, which crosses the Vltava River, was another one of our favorite places to hang out.  There are towers on both sides, and around 30 statues (baroque-style, originally erected around 1700 but now all replaced by replicas; the originals have been placed in the National Museum –according to Wikipedia) line either side of the bridge. 

Along the bridge are various art, craft, jewelry kiosks, and once again, assorted musicians.  It also provides a great view of the city, in particular, Prague Castle on the hill above it.

Kacie was carrying the baby in her chest-snuggle, I was generally pushing the stroller. I definitely have some spatial disorientation regarding the front wheels of that contraption, and several times accidentally bumped into other peoples’ feet, and ran over a few ankles with it, which really pissed off at least one lady, despite my profuse apologies.

Legend has it that if you rub the golden dog,
you are assured of returning to Prague.
So, of course, we rubbed him.

Adjacent to the dog, is the woman.
Most people rub her too.
Presumably..ummm... just to touch her butt.

One day we headed across the Charles Bridge to see the Prague Castle. The Guinness Book of Records lists Prague Castle as the largest ancient castle in the world.
We first stopped at a riverside café for lovely lunch, and Clara had a chance to throw bread at the ducks while we ate.

The café where we had lunch one day

Nearby the café where we dined (I believe in Malá Strana district of the Vltava, near a water wheel) were “love locks” on a small pedestrian bridge, which I found charming. It’s a bit of a hike uphill to see the castle, made even more challenging pushing the buggy.





A “love lock” or “love padlock” is a padlock 
which sweethearts

 lock to a bridge, fence, gate, or similar public fixture

 to symbolize their everlasting love,
 often throwing the key into the river.

The Prague Castle grounds were breathtaking. Though we bought the full-tour tickets, we arrived too late in the afternoon to see all of the buildings, and a number of areas were not accessible with a stroller.



St. Nicholaus Church



Clara enjoying the "bubble guy"
Lots of folks stopped to take her picture



I also wanted to see the Old Jewish Cemetery, and we went there late the second afternoon to check out the hours. As it turned out, it was the last time it would be open during our trip because of a two-day Jewish holiday that began the next day.  So the kids went back to the room while I raced around it for one hour before closing time to see as much as I could.

According to Wiki, “It was in use from the early 15th century (the oldest preserved tombstone, the one of Avigdor Kara, dates back to 1439) until 1787”.  Because burial space was limited, the cemetery soil was stratified, bodies were buried on top of each other, with the previous tombstones moved to the top level each time.

“The numbers of grave stones and number of people buried there are uncertain, because there are layers of tombs. However, it has been estimated that there are approximately 12,000 tombstones presently visible, and there may be as many as 100,000 bodies buried in all”.

Another place I wanted to see was a small museum my brother raved about after his first trip to Prague because of its fascinating (though grim) history.  I had a few hours our last afternoon (without kids) to go see it.

It is located in the church of St. CharlesBorro-meaus (also known in past as Orthodox Church – Saints Cyril and Method).  The crypt was the last hide out/last stand and refuge of Czech patriots/paratroopers who carried out the assassination of Reinhard Heydrich (acting Nazi “head of state” during the Czech occupation). I believe there were about 15 men who took their last stand there, when they were betrayed by a coward who was in on the plot initially. They were surrounded by 800 Gestapo soldiers, and each Czech patriot fought to their death – or committed suicide - rather than surrender. The Nazi’s retribution for this conflict was severe (two Czech towns were annihilated and more than a thousand brave Czech men, women, and children were eventually executed for their participation for helping the resistance fighters). Having the opportunity to leisurely tour this museum was very moving experience.




Taken by friendly Spaniard guy I met on my way
to the find the "Krypt". I took one for him too.
Charles Bridge in the background 

On our last afternoon/early evening, Kacie, the kids, and I walked back up the hill to the castle so we could take photos as the magical dusk glow bathed the city below.  Later we stopped at a charming outdoor café for a delicious last dinner on our way back to room (on the castle side, before Charles bridge).

I’ve driven through England, Scotland, spent a few days in Paris, and taken two really wonderful trips to lovely Amsterdam…but if I had my pick now to visit a European city again, it would be Prague.
It was a special trip, with my daughter and kids, and wonderful new memories to be forever shared with my family loved ones.





Taken our last evening in Prague