Oh My!

October 8, 2013
 


Courtesy of Internet

Last Sunday afternoon, Todd, our dog Daisy, and I took a walk in the jungle. The weather was balmy, and it seemed like a good day for a leisurely hike. There are a number of roads heading east out of Olón; many start out as broad streets that narrow down to single-file paths as civilization wanes, and the jungle becomes denser.
We saw the COOLEST thing!
We hadn't gone far - in fact, there were still barb-wired private properties to either side (a spacious, open, grazing field on the left side, and on the right side there were more jungle-like thickets).

The road was still wide, and hadn't narrowed yet into a trail - when Daisy suddenly stopped, looking at something underneath the luxuriant shady tree to our left, apparently spotting a small animal.
In less than a split second, we saw an "el tigrillo" (little tiger- an ocelot, we think) come out from the foliage, (from  our right) slink quickly across the road in front of us to retrieve it, and then she raced back, once she had the cub in her mouth (which is when I got the pic).
I barely had time to snap this picture.
Which is very blurry.  See below.

The tigrillo is leaping through the barb wire fence, with cub in her mouth.
above Daisy's back, just above the tree shadow,
and next to fence pole in the center of the picture.

AMAZING!
First of all, this happened before we even got into the jungle, and because they are normally nocturnal creatures.

Here is a brief blurb from Frommer’s “Ecuador” (2007 edition) book:

“The scientific name is “Leopardus pardalis”.  The tail of the tigrillo (little tiger as it’s called in Ecuador) is longer than its rear leg, which makes for easy identification. Although occasionally active during the daytime, ocelots are predominantly nocturnal. During the daytime they often sleep in trees. Prime viewing:  Lowland and mid-elevation forests throughout Ecuador, although most common the Amazon basin”.

 

I'm telling you, we were thrilled!

 

I don't know what are chances are of commonly seeing an ocelot (in our coastal area of Ecuador, and in the DAYTIME!).

And especially that mama had let the cub venture from protective, thick foliage on one side of the road, to sit under a tree, in a relatively open, sunny, and exposed field all by itself.

It was a spectacular creature!

Todd got a little better look, because I was fumbling with the camera.

 

We proceeded to stumble upon a few other splendid things. We didn’t see many of the colorful birds we’ve seen in past, but the butterflies were beautiful, especially the iridescent blue ones. 

We spotted this well camouflaged, bushy-tailed squirrel (notice the white ring around the end of tail if you can spot the squirrel in the photo below):

  

This bushy-tailed squirrel is
clinging to left side of tree,
if you can spot him.

 

At one point, as we got deeper in the jungle, we heard a great commotion in the trees next to us, and caught a glimpse of a tail climbing down from one of them (brown or black, but definitely not as fluffy as the squirrel‘s tail), and figured them to be monkeys (“howling” monkeys the most common around here). 

We hadn’t prepared well for this hike, because we planned for just a short walk.  We were wearing only the briefest of clothes, and flip-flops.
We were not exactly dressed right to go much further into the jungle.

We had no water with us, or even our “Leatherman”… Dumb.

We wanted to go in further – we wanted to see more.

We were headed into “lions, tigers, and bears ---OH MY!” territory.



 

There comes a point along some of these anorexic jungle paths that you have to choose  between looking down to see the “ekkie” (fer-de-lance) snake before stepping on one, and looking ahead/above before that huge spider web finds your face first, before you see it.



A picture that Todd took a couple of
years ago...you get the idea.

So we turned around.

 

Not five minutes after we reversed (still pretty deep in the jungle), we heard a growling thing coming from the underbrush…Or over head?
It was a distinct growl. Todd was a little ahead of me on the single file path. We both froze, had enough time to both say & agree “that was a growl”, when it happened again.
We froze once more. And then SLOWLY CREPT AWAY as soon as soon we thought prudent.

 

 

I’ve always thought I would be sort of scared going into jungles (was NOT on MY “bucket list”), since I hate bugs (though I do okay with snakes, mice, bats, lizards, etc.).

And I never expected to enjoy poking around our jungle areas as much as I do.

 

 

Our Dog Daisy
Heading home after our adventure.

 

Say Again?

September 26, 2013



Our mobile, local
"Container Store"

Earlier this week, we marked the autumnal equinox.

I always forget the difference between the “solitices” and the “equinoxes”.

Here is an article I came across recently (one of the best links I’ve found explaining it):

http://www.nbcnews.com/science/what-defines-end-summer-its-just-how-our-planet-tilted-4B11221602

In particular:

“The seasons are marked by solstices and equinoxes — astronomical terms that relate to Earth’s tilt.”

“The solstices mark the points at which the poles are tilted at their maximum toward or away from the sun. This is when the difference between the daylight hours and the nighttime hours is most acute. The solstices occur each year on June 20 or 21 and Dec. 21 or 22, and represent the official start of the summer and winter seasons.”

“The vernal equinox and autumnal equinox herald the beginning of spring and fall, respectively. At these times of the year, the sun appears to be directly over Earth’s equator, and the lengths of the day and the night are equal over most of the planet.”

“The seasons are a powerful force in our lives. They affect the activities we do, the foods we crave, and the clothes we wear— and quite often, the moods we are in. The seasons officially change once again on Sunday, with autumn beginning in the Northern Hemisphere and spring starting in the south”.
 

So, of course here in Ecuador, it is the beginning of our spring.

I’ve had quite a few locals (and gringos) tell me that – living this close to the Equator – the effects of the solstices/equinoxes and the full moons are felt more intensely…and I have to agree with that, to some degree.

 

 

Full Moon rises over Olón

 

 

Generally, this is the time of year when our weather in this pocket micro-climate is usually dreary (and frequently “drizzly”, though it is the “dry” season).

This is our fourth full-time “winter” here (June through November), and each one has been unalike.
I’ve given up predicting the weather.

Our first one was sweatshirt/sweatpants chilly, overcast, and very wet – and lasted for the full six months. Every local said then that they “couldn’t remember when it was this “COLD” in Olón.

Every year has been different, but none has been as nippy or as enduring since then.

We’re looking forward to the coming summer, and we've had exquisite weather recently.
Earlier than usual, but then again "winter" started earlier this year too...so maybe we'll have a sunnier fall (whoops, I mean "spring") this year on the Ecuadorian coast.

 

We took long, peaceful walks on the beach last week (as did everyone in town).

We also had a full moon around the same time. The convergence of the solstices/equinoxes and a full moon sometimes generate the “king tides”…




The “king tides” happen about once or twice a year.

The “king tides” are long, relatively slow and shallow tides that come up for a few days about 20-50 yards further than usual (up to/or into the seafood cabanas on our Olón beach, and to beachfront property fence lines).

Don’t ask me to explain this.

I have tried to research more, but still haven’t found definitive answer about the confluence of events that causes this to happen, but I have witnessed these king tides happening about once or twice a year.

 

I guess the main thing to “take away” from this post is that we “are opposite” on this southern side of the Equator.

BUT….not in all things…

About five years ago, I actually did have a visiting friend convinced that the toilets flushed counter clock-wise and the sun rose in the west.
But some things don’t change...even here.
The sun still rises in the east, and still sets in the west, over the Pacific Ocean.

Most times of year, we have breathtaking ocean sunsets here.
But try finding the Big Dipper on a clear night…or the damn elusive Southern Cross, which I still can’t find/recognize.

Courtesy of Kacie Frost
April 2013

 

Also, Ecuador is not a country in Africa.
Another question that was frequently asked A LOT when we first bought our properties here six years ago, though not asked much anymore – given Ecuador’s extensive exposure in the media lately.

 

We also went up to La Rinconada one day last week to a friend’s house (a local artist that Todd commissioned) who presented us with a 3D Sketch-Up for our house build, and am very excited about the ideas he came up with.  Now, to fine tune before we have blue prints drawn up.
La Rinconada is a small town about twenty minutes north of us – a beautiful area, adjacent to the Machalilla National Park.

 

 

 

Looking North from La Riconada
Islote Los Ahorcados in right background.
"Hanging Men Island"

 

 



Another house on the road into
La Riconada

The annual CITUP bus parade just passed through town a couple of nights ago.

At 2:00 AM in the morning…

Still kind of scratching my head about that.

I've got a few videos, which I posted on You-tube, since I can’t easily insert them into my Blogger posts anymore.
Click on these links to see:

"Olón Chicken Bus Parade #1"

"Olon Chicken Bus Parade #2" 

Usually this bus parade happens around 8-10PM before the yearly “taste of coast” event, though I haven’t seen it advertised this year.

(Reference the post “Knocked Up”).

Although we do have an Olón town party coming up in our park this Sunday night, with a popular Ecuadorian comedian, some dancing, and some prizes.

Jorge's At the Beach
has new juice blender.

 

The rest of the pictures posted here are just random ones taken during the last few months.



Local kids coming to our door
for some candy from our bowl.

Todd and one of our
Montanita friends, who joined us for
lunch a couple of days ago.

Capt'n Crunch Has Landed

August 31, 3013

A couple of days ago, I took a serene, impromptu hike up a nearby dirt road on the east side of the Ruta del Sol (Spondylus). *
There are a number of these roads that lead back into the jungle, and one does not need to go very far to get into a more “jungly” environment (less than a quarter mile, becoming more dense and isolated further down the roads).

The change in vegetation and birdlife is vivid in such a short distance between the beach side and hill side of the Ruta del Sol.

Of course, the plants are more lush and the birds more colorful and diverse on the hill side.

 

I was in pursuit of a particular arbusto de ají which I heard might ripe now, for some pico de gallo that I was making for dinner that night.  I love the ají peppers here, but only the larger ones are sold in the markets now, and they're not hot enough for me.  I was looking for the little tiny ones that have a wicked bite, and a variety of ají bushes grow wild.  We used to have one ají bush in the yard of our old house until it died – I think because I flat out picked it bare using the peppers.



The aji bush that used to be in my front yard
Before I killed it

 

It was a beautiful walk.  I had to ford the Rio Olón at one point (which, as you can see from the picture wasn’t deep at the crossing).  About one hundred yards up-river was a family washing their clothes in the water and I took the above shot using the telephoto function on the Canon PowerShot A2500 I’m driving now.

 

These are some of the pictures I got on that hike.

Alas, I didn’t find the elusive ají plants that I was looking for, but really enjoyed the afternoon walk, met some really nice local people along the way, and think I’m going to have to do this more often.

In fact, I’ve been walking a lot lately.  Earlier in the week, I headed to new friend Denise Morris’s house to pick up a box of Capt’n Crunch that Karen Kimbler (“Kimbler’s Exit to Ecuador”) brought down for me on her last trip to the States (a couple of months ago).  This box of cereal has been around, to get it into my hands here on the coast. It may have more stamps on its passport than I do.
Anyway, I had a great time getting to know Denise, and then I decided to walk 10 minutes on down the highway to Manglaralto to pay some bills.
I discovered that the roadside speed detectors are sensitive enough to pick up a pedestrian walking, which I thought was pretty cool…

Trying to capture that picture showing my speed was a little trickier. If I took it while walking, the pictures were blurry. If I paused, the display disappeared.  I repeatedly backed up 12 feet trying to get a picture, finally getting this one – I believe – by taking a running start and leaping in mid-air to snap.
I’m sure if any of the kids at the school across the street saw that, they must have thought I was one crazy gringa.

Our dog Daisy is in “pseudo” heat again. We had her fixed shortly after we adopted her 3 years ago**, but the vet didn’t take everything out. For the last couple of seasons (twice a year) Daisy now gets an injection to prevent her from being receptive to eager suitors as soon as we notice the signs. That’s worked pretty well (the hope being that after a few times, her “girl parts” will eventually shrivel up before we need to put her through surgery).  But it still doesn’t stop the fellas from trying, and all the commotion that involves.  We try and keep her inside as much as possible during the love season.

And we seem to have acquired a new wannabe family member. Our Ecuadorian next door neighbor’s dog, “Keen” has taken a real shine to us, and tags along with Todd, Daisy, and me wherever we go.
He’s such a scroungy mutt, but very lovable, though we don’t encourage him, since he belongs to someone else.   Still, he sooo wants to be part of our family and proudly follows us around town all the time now, with that shaggy tail waving happily.

 

Fortunately, birth control was not a factor regarding the next picture.
I have two new grandchildren I’d like to welcome to the world!
Levi Brian and Isobel Katherine, born August 12 in England – and congratulations to proud parents Katherine and Clive Wright!


 





Just a few other shots that I’ve taken this week testing out my new camera (thanks, Scott Creasey for muling that one back from the States for me):

Nearby "Mr. Grumpy's" vegetable stand.
"Mr. Grumpy" not pictured - that's another guy in photo.
Actually, Mr. Grumpy is a really nice guy, but he
intimidated a few of us gringos initially because
he's not a very smiley kind of person

A mural in Olón

* See the post "You Say Spondylus" for more about the Ruta del Sol/Spondylus highway's name.
** See "And Dog Makes Three"

Making A Difference

August 13, 2013
 

 

I’ve mentioned before that one of the wonderful things about living here on the coast of Ecuador is the great people we get to meet that travel through this area.

One of them came through a few months ago (Jill Andreychak) from South Jersey.

 

All pictures and verbiage included with this post are courtesy of Jill, with the exception of the top photo, which was taken of the three of us (and Daisy) by a local friend.

    

Dear Leigh,

I finally have returned to the US and have been thrust back in to my “American Reality.”  Amazing how much of an impact two weeks away can have on a person!
I am so happy to have met you during my adventures in Ecuador!  I am going to continue to write this email in letter form, but feel free to take any parts and use them for your blog.  I have several stories to share so I will continue to write to you.  As for now, I would like to do a short background on how I discovered my love for the Ruta del Sol and also tell my story of doing the fundraiser for the primary school in Montanita.  

Long story short.  I have a Masters Degree in Communicative Disorders and I am a speech-language pathologist for a public school in Southern New Jersey.  I also have been employed as a flight attendant for US Airways for over 13 years.  This chaotic combination of professions and my love of living with sand in my toes brought me to South America.

Two years ago I was looking for a place to vacation that would provide hot weather and good surfing in February.  I also wanted to take classes and learn Spanish.  While searching the internet for Spanish Language Schools, I discovered the Montanita Spanish School.  Voila! 

In 2012, I attended a week of classes at the Montanita Spanish School.  I quickly fell in love with Montanita and the Spanish School.  I discovered that the students who attended over two weeks of Spanish classes were eligible to participate in volunteer programs aiding local children.

Unfortunately, I am unable to be away from my jobs and my two children for longer than a week at a time.  Volunteering in a local school would not be a possibility for me.  When I returned home to the states, Montanita was firmly planted in my heart but I knew that I could not return for at least a year.  I began looking for any information I could find about this tiny town. 

That is when I stumbled upon your blog.  During the months that I was back in NJ, I researched the communities that surrounded Montanita and tried to learn as much as possible about the coast of Ecuador; its culture and its people.  I used Google to find any tidbit of information that Leigh included in her blog.  Reading about the ex-pats that have transplanted to Olón and the incredible lifestyle that they lead had my wheels turning.  My dream began to blossom...

Discovering Volunteerism


Primary School in Montanita

Years ago, while on an overnight in Madrid, I discovered a charming Peruvian that was living in Spain.  (Yes, the stories you hear of flight attendants are TRUE, lol!)  He was returning to Peru to visit his family and I decided that he would be the perfect tour guide for my first visit to South America.
 
In October of 2008 I sat on a flight to Lima, Peru.  This little lady from South Jersey had visions of being tied to a tree in the jungle and surrounded by drug lords.  I’m not gonna lie.  I grew up in suburbia, and although I was a flight attendant, I had only travelled to European cities.  I admit, my knowledge of South America was... well... limited. 

I quickly discovered that Peru was an incredibly, beautiful country with delicious food, intriguing culture and fantastic people.  As I was returning to the airport in Lima, I passed a wrought iron fence that surrounded a group of lovely buildings.  I asked the taxi driver if the compound was a college or university.  He told me that it was not a university, but an orphanage.  I was shocked.  Somewhere in my middle-class, Americana brain I knew that orphanages existed, but to actually SEE one was somehow surreal. 

Fast forward to 2012...still having the vision of the Peruvian orphanage firmly imprinted in my memory and having found my new paradise on the Ruta del Sol; things started to blend and swirl around in my mind.   I wanted to do something for the local people in Montanita.  Although my funds were limited, my resources were overflowing! 

I contacted the Montanita Spanish School where I had taken Spanish classes the year before and asked the interns working there to help me make arrangements to make a donation to the primary school in Montanita.  Next, it was party time...or shall I say, fiesta?

I planned a “Not-So-Fancy Cocktail Party” for my friends, family, co-workers and neighbors.  I “charged”  guests $10 per ticket to my party which included some drinks and appetizers.  Several people were not able to attend but generously contributed to my fundraiser. My friends and family were so supportive that many graciously donated much more than the suggested amount of ten dollars.

I was able to purchase a laptop computer, printer, 10 additional ink cartridges and an entire shopping cart full of school supplies, such as, construction paper, writing paper, crayons, markers, dry-erase boards, workbooks, scissors, etc.

Since I was a flight attendant, flying standby to Guayaquil, I was permitted to carry my baggage on board and I didn’t have to worry about excess baggage fees or checking my luggage.  Although dragging the donated items through three airports and into the taxi was a hassle, it was FREE!
 

On Thursday, February 21, 2013 I presented the donated items to the primary school in Montanita
.  

One of the “locals” from town had mentioned to me that the primary school was a very good school and that maybe I should have made a donation to one of the less fortunate schools in a surrounding community.  Having never seen the inside of the school, I became nervous.  I was thinking that maybe the children here had enough supplies and computers.  I was worried that I would be providing the school with something they really didn’t need.  When I entered the building and was introduced to the director, I quickly discovered that although the students received a good education, they absolutely did not have any computers! 

 

The primary school in Montanita is a cheerful, bright and charming learning environment but they have an extremely limited amount of school supplies.  As you can see from the expressions on the faces of the children in the picture, a computer was a BIG surprise!
 

 

When making a donation to a school in Montanita, a formal letter must be signed by the party donating the item and the party receiving the item.  It was explained to me that the reason for this is not only for tax purposes, but to prove that the items belong to the school and were not stolen property. 

 

This picture is so special to me.  I was completely overwhelmed by how thankful the children, teachers and director of the school were.  In this photo, the director is thanking me for donating to the school.  I am explaining, through my tears and broken Spanish that the donation is from my family, friends, co-workers and neighbors.  I told Genevieva, the director, that this was all possible because of the support from my family and friends.  My family and friends showed their love and support of me by contributing to something that they know was close to my heart.  This day was made purely from generosity and love.

 

 

A special thanks to the interns from the Montanita Spanish School who helped with transporting me and the donations to the school, as well as assisted in making arrangements to meet the director of the school and students. 

 


From left to right,

Meike, (intern from the Montanita Spanish School)

Jill, Ronny (from the Montanita Spanish School) and  Genevieva, (the director of the Primary School)

I loved meeting the children from the school!  For the remainder of my stay in Montanita they would recognize me in town and I would here them saying, “Senora!  Computadora!”

 

 

 

 

 

On a tour with school girls