Saturday, March 26, 2011

What`s Up Doc?

March 26, 2011

It has been longer than usual since I last posted, and for that I apologize; Todd and I have been entertaining company, as well as preparing for several groups of vacationing guests arriving later this week (aside from our house, Todd also handles rental requests for a number of other part-time and local homeowners, and we have recently taken on property management duties for a couple of those).
Also, I am in a quandary. I write every day and originally thought it would not take me much time to edit my earlier notes and post accordingly to catch up to present day. But it seems that the faster I go the behind-er I get, and I am eager to post current events. Still, in order for my comments on “now” to make sense, I need to touch upon some happenings since November occasionally. My past narrative last left off with “Boose”, and I will be bouncing between then and now for awhile.
Bear with me as I figure out how to toggle between now and then.

Our beach on a
normal day
One last thing about the tsunami…Those waves never went past our normal high tide line (though there was one more additional alert sounded around 2AM our time – almost 24 hours after the Japanese earthquake – when our tide did get scarily sucked out further than normal in the dark – but with no resulting inland surge). 
However, the recent proximity of the moon generated huge waves that came further ashore than we’ve yet seen; a few nights ago the tide came all the way up to the beachfront cabanita restaurants (a good 25-30 feet past normal high tide) and I noticed that waves were "breaking right" (the Montanita side of the point is known for this, but I have never seen the waves “break right”* on our side).  Several locals told us these monster waves occur about twice a year, so maybe the moon’s nearness was only a small factor.  Unfortunately, I don’t have a good picture of the high tides because it was either dark or early, early morning (at least earlier than I generally arise).


A few nights ago I checked out a traveling bazaar that is set up near our town park for a few days. They were hawking everything from kettles to bras, and included an M.C. to liven things up (I am still not fluent enough in Spanish to understand a lot of what is said word for word, but he was demonstrating various items for sale, and it almost sounded to me like he was auctioning a few things as well – see the below video).  Much of the merchandise is not normally available locally, and I’m sure it’s a great convenience for those who would otherwise have to drive to Libertad/Salinas (cities 45 minutes-hour away) and lack adequate personal transportation to do so.



Recently, we also spent some time with a New York native visitor – Frank – who for the last 3 weeks stayed at a rental house in nearby Curia, owned by an Iowa friend of ours. We got acquainted with him through this blog, and really enjoyed getting the chance to know him better. One of the great things about living in this area is the opportunity to meet interesting travelers, and we certainly enjoyed getting to know Frank.  He also brought us paperbacks, a ton of Q-Tips (upon our request, because the Q-Tips here are relatively expensive and as sturdy as a strand of spaghetti) and he brought tabloids (next to bacon and hot chili peppers in jars, they are another thing I crave). NOT that I am hinting or anything……


Okay, so to go back a little…

Janie, Tom, Payal
We ended up having a GREAT time with the three doctors (Payal, Janie, and Tom) who are finishing up their residency at George Washington University and were here for a month last fall to do volunteer work at the Manglaralto clinic and for some much needed R&R. The weather was gloomy and drippy during their stay, but they were great sports about it. They dragged a twin bed mattress from the downstairs bedroom into the living room and made a comfy DVD watching “fort” on the floor in front of the TV for their down time. We ended doing a lot together, fixing dinners at our house, playing cards, and hanging around Montanita some evenings.  They were also great about letting me slip into our outside utility room to do our wash a couple of times a week, and we kind of became a big, happy family with our doctor “kids”. 

One night we all headed into Montanita for the evening and drank “Adios Mother F..kers” at a Bar Alley cocktail stand (“Galen´s” –our favorite) until we were adequately “adios-ed”.  Another morning we took an interesting trip up to a nearby hillside spa/retreat to find out more (ask questions) about the shamanic healing ceremonies they offer that include the"sacred" ayahuasca plant (Payal, Janie and Tom - if you are reading this, kids...remember that interesting little expedition?).
All in all, we had such a fun time with them that I felt bad about my initial sourpuss attitude about moving to the rental apartment earlier in the season than Todd and I anticipated.

One more thing....The other day, while walking across the soccer field on my way to catch the bus, I realized my shirt was inside out. Many a fashion faux pas can be committed here,but that is not one of them. Daisy sat with me while I waited for the bus for a half hour. Once I got on the bus (which thankfully wasn´t crowded) I went to the very back, where I dived underneath my seat and flipped my shirt around, barely getting it done before the money-guy came around.  **


* As seen from a surfer´s perspective from the ocean, waves generally veer to the left as they head towards the beach (at least along the Pacific shoreline). I might not be accurately informed about this, so feel free to correct me if I am wrong. But waves “breaking right” along our 8-mile stretch of beach is an unusual sight.


**  PS to Dr. Tom - I can`t find the copy of the “Daisy” group hug video you took when you all were leaving… If your cute, scrawny Chinese butt has time (inside joke, folks), please send it again.

Sunday, March 13, 2011

Feet Don´t Fail Me Now 2

March 13, 2011

It has been two days since the earthquake in Japan and ensuing tsunami warnings along the Pacific Rim.  It was virtually impossible to get an internet connection after my last post that day* and yesterday saw us busy getting our home and Big Deck’s house back in order since we had moved all vulnerable electronics, furniture, books, etc. onto high counters or to upstairs rooms in both houses.  All outdoor items were moved inside, and we closed and shuttered windows.  Perhaps we took more precaution than was necessary, but we felt better safe than sorry – especially if the need to evacuate took on urgency.



Around 1:00 PM the day of the tsunami warning, most stores were closed; Montanita was deserted and we heard that police were closing all the roads except those leading into the hills.  We saw many, many locals loading up trucks and cycles with mattresses and other personal items.  Todd and German Mike took our neighbor Carlos, his wife Maria and their kids up to family’s house in the hills a few minutes away.  And as you can see from the adjoining pictures, they also took their mattress.

The view from
Barb & Robert´s patio
Todd had the chance to run up to Curia (a little town just north of Olon) to check on the adorable beachfront house recently purchased by our new friends, Barbara and Robert who live in Stanford (more on them later).  By this point we were fairly confident that the tsunami drama would probably be nothing more than higher than usual tides.  The news we were hearing about the waves’ impact (or should I say lack of it?) in Hawaii and along the California coast was encouraging, but Todd and I were still waiting for its collision with the Galapagos Islands before making a decision to vacate our neighborhood.

By 4:00 PM in the afternoon, I don’t think anyone around here was really that worried. And honestly, I think the atmosphere in town around then became almost festive.  Locals and gringos alike were packed, ready and encouraged to go to the hills and most did. A bunch of Montanita folks headed to the hillside Montanita Zip-line Canopy place and had a big tsunami party; locals and gringos headed to friends’ hillside homes and all of the higher elevation hotels were open and welcoming.  We did go up to “El Retiro” (a very nice hillside retreat near us) which was crowded with vehicles and local people in a generally jolly mood) but came back down to the beach around 9:00 PM feeling it was safe and wanting to keep an eye on our houses.  President Correa sounded a coastal all-clear some time after midnight, but I think a lot people stayed up in the hills until early morning.
 
I suppose there are some reading this that are nervous about tsunamis and may be having second thoughts about coming to Ecuador.  But where exactly do you go in this world where there aren’t natural disasters occasionally?
I grew up in Kansas...we had tornados there (I still love that weather….about the only Kansas weather I miss).  In Palm Springs, we had earthquakes (those will get your attention, for sure) and there are hurricanes and volcanoes and landslides and fires and floods and I don’t know…whatever. Wherever.

Are hearts are saddened by the devastation in Japan, and we remember all those whose lives have been affected by the tragedy in our prayers. But still, we cannot live in fear. I confess, I live in fear at times, but more from my inner demons than any damn tsunami… I am reminded of a verse by Kahlil Gibran about fear.  In context it is more about our fear of living rather than dying (and has absolutely nothing to do with natural disasters), but one of my all time favorite verses, nevertheless:
“But if in your fear you would seek only love’s peace and love’s pleasure,
Then it is better for you that you cover your nakedness and pass out of love’s threshing-floor,
Into the seasonless world where you shall laugh, but not all of your laughter, and weep, but not all of your tears.”
 

* I added couple of more pictures to my last post “Feet Don’t Fail Me Now” that didn’t make it the first time because of a bad internet connection.

Friday, March 11, 2011

Feet Don't Fail Me Now

March 11, 2011

I am interrupting my narrative to report on the potential tsunami that may strike our coast later this afternoon:

Our coastline
around10:00 AM
Shortly before daybreak, we woke up to Randy and Fonda yelling and pounding on our door in the dark, warning us of a tsunami.  Another friend, TJ also sent a text message to alert us and others.  Initially, there was some panic since we weren’t aware where the earthquake had hit, or when to expect the ensuing waves.  We all live only a hundred yards or so from the ocean. Neighbors Randy and Fonda, and Bobby headed to the hills. Todd ran to get our friend and neighbor Doug’s truck (“Big Blue” - they are currently back in the States now) and began loading up our computer, cash & bank cards, and a couple of other things.  I made the bed, washed last night’s dishes, and took a shower…. Don’t ask me why…I found my reaction strange, but felt that we had some time before heading to the hills. I did put on my running shoes and grabbed the camera, a couple of valiums (?!) and looked for Daisy (who is going through another pseudo heat cycle).

10:00 AM (Eastern Standard Time)

In the meantime the town’s loudspeakers and cruising police vehicles were announcing the tsunami warning.  About then we heard the earthquake had occurred in Japan and we had a few hours warning should we need to evacuate. We were also hearing other reports that Ecuador’s President Correa was calling for a coastal evacuation by noon.  I headed over to Doug and Jack’s house to turn on the news and realized that we have some time (first reports are saying to expect waves around 5PM our time) to decide a course of action. We texted family and friends, especially those who live on the Northern USA coast and are still sleeping.
Fonda, Todd, Sitara
Comparing notes and news
Now that we have a few more facts, things have calmed down.  Randy and Fonda returned from the hills chuckling about their reaction; Bobby had also taken time to shower first; Randy thought to grab their passports, and Fonda “brought the towel”… A towel… which is pretty good thinking when you consider the likelihood of getting wet.
It is a sparklingly sunny morning here, the ocean is calm, so it feels strange to be hunkered down at Jack and Doug & Pam’s (for the sake of brevity, I am calling it the “Big Deck’s” house from now on, and until circumstances change, I am taking photos from this beachfront balcony) and watching the news on their satellite TV. Right now we are waiting to see how the tsunami affects Hawaii and the western US coast; we are not particularly worried yet, but definitely ready to start moving downstairs items in this house (and ours) to upper level rooms.  We have a big pot of coffee going, neighbors have been in and out, and our friend Sitara (with her puppy Lily) is with us as well. Sitara has a few packed bags with her, and considerately thought to bring a nice bottle of wine. 

1:00 PM EST – Olon, Ecuador

While many of the locals seem fairly sanguine about the impending tsunami waves, announcements continue over the town’s loudspeakers, and preparations are clearly being made to brace against a potentially larger than normal tide surge.  I don’t think that anyone here is really expecting to face a huge wall of water coming at us like a speeding jet, but everyone is buttoning down the hatches, and we are as well.
We have moved most everything in Big Deck’s house that is electronic or vulnerable to the upstairs rooms, or several feet off the downstairs floors, and brought inside all the outdoor  stuff like chairs, kayaks, and toys that are around. We have locked most windows and storm shutters as well. We are getting ready to do the same thing at our house next, and depending on reports once the waves hit the Galapagos, prepared to unplug /disconnect all electrical and gas driven devices in both houses before we leave head for the hills (according to everyone I’ve asked so far, we have half hour to an hour to do this. We are grateful for the adequate warning we have to get ready, especially in light of the sad news broadcasts we are watching from Japan).
The funny – kinda ha ha – thing is that one of the other owners of this beach front property was just here this last week, and he loves gadgets (thank God).  Because through the years he has brought most every type of survival tool necessary, such as walkie-talkies, powerful flashlights, flares, and psychedelic laser lights….

Franklin demonstrating
our emergency water vehicle this AM

Not to mention this particular tsunami water vehicle that he left that might prove to be lifesaving should we need it.  See adjoining picture.
Neighbor Carlos’ wife Maria and kids Franklin and Adrianna posed for this pic shortly before they fled to higher ground a few minutes ago.  They packed their mattress, a couple of suitcases, and Todd and German Mike drove them there (about 15minutes away).
It is now around 3:30 PM our time and we are all noticing the breeze picking up on our shoreline.


I will post through the day as I can, assuming our internet works, but it is only now that I am getting a connection long enough to post this, thus far.






Wednesday, March 2, 2011

Boose

October 25, 2010


I love riding the chicken buses here…perhaps not for the faint-hearted, but as a general rule, they are safe, at least along our stretch of the Ruta del Sol (Spondylus). And anyway, we usually only ride them between Olon and Montanita (25 cents). They run in either direction about every 5 to 10 minutes and can be hailed anywhere along the highway. They all have lively music or a DVD movie going, and a picture of Jesus, and most have upped the ambiance by adding black lights, inside/outside Christmas lights and window treatments in some variation of “fringe”.

Never mind that these same drivers have a rather well established reputation for racing each other every chance they get. Once or twice have I passed on a bus if the driver seemed a little too maniacal (I’ll generally wait for the next one if the driver comes barreling down the road at 40 miles an hour and screeches to a halt with what are clearly bad brakes. Even I recognize the sound of brakes in need of pads).
Now mind you, none of these guys will give you much time to get on or off the bus.  Getting on these vehicles is akin to a hobo jumping on a freight train. I’m no spring chicken, and there are times when some youngster bus assistant/toll-taker has given me a butt shove up the steps…And don´t try this stunt when the steps and your shoes are wet.  Todd still bears a scar on his shin from a year ago after pulling this maneuver in slick flip flops.

 
The mini Terminal Terrestre
station
Taking the chicken buses into Libertad for groceries is a breeze (assuming we don’t have a lot of stuff to bring back) and costs $1.50 each way.  From the Libertad bus station (actually there are two, and buses shuttling coastal traffic arrive and depart from the mini Terminal Terrestre). From there, it is only a dollar cab ride to the mall where HiperMarket* (think Walmart) is located, or for a couple of dollars to go a little further to the slightly more upscale Supermaxi, where we prefer to get our groceries.  Only once did we have a minor problem:  our cab driver from the mall back to the Terminal Terrestre just didn’t seem to understand that we wanted to go to the bus (pronounced “boose”) station. Try as we might, he stared uncomprehendingly at us (maybe our pronunciation of “Terminal Terrestre” lacked finesse …?)
So we did what everyone does in these situations: we started talking LOUDER (“necesitamos un boose… un boose…un BOOSE!”).

Janie, Tom, & Payal
I am starting to warm up to the doctors now in our house – Payal, Janie and Tom. They are nice “kids”, and we’ve actually been having a lot of fun with them. The docs are doing volunteer work at the nearby Manglaralto clinic and getting some much needed R&R as well.  Unfortunately, the weather had been crappy since they arrived, but I think they are having a good time enjoying our DVD library during their down time.
 They wanted to stock up on groceries, so a couple of days ago we all took the chicken bus into Libertad. We got a big kick out of the vendors that boarded the bus during one stop, skillfully hocking various gadgets in true infomercial style (“and the first five people who purchase one of these light-up pens gets a second one free”) and later cleaned out the Supermaxi. We’ve got enough food to feed an army and plans to fix dinner at the house later this week.

Daisy mostly hangs out at the house with the docs, but occasionally follows us back to the apartment at night.  We  are allowing her inside when she is there (she is not allowed in the beach house when we are at home), so this is her first time to be an "indoor" dog. She’s still disgusted with the damn cat and it’s just too much to ask her to sleep outside with a feline critter.


* For more on HiperMarket, see “Thingamajiggy


Thursday, February 24, 2011

Some Like it Hot

October 21, 2010

Okee-dokey….so the last time I lived in digs similar to our new Olon apartment I was in my twenties (dealing  blackjack and roulette in northeast Nevada) and moved from Elko to an apartment complex in Wendover that had formerly been military barracks. It’s not that I’m unhappy – Todd and I are actually tickled to score it – but it’s going to be an adjustment.
The apartment belongs to our friend Guy, who wants to spend several months in Guayaquil and it comes with his furniture, stove and refrigerator (and we are saving a little off the $350 rent by agreeing to let Guy lock up his stuff in the second bedroom so he doesn’t have to move it). Guy is an ex-Navy S.E.A.L.  and trained attorney who for the last several years been running and co-owns the Insomniac Café in Montanita. He’s also an all-around really, really nice chap. 
Packing up for the move.

We’ve moved to a triplex located just east of the Ruta del Sol down the lavanderia road (there’s a shrine at the turnoff) owned by Antonio and Patricia of Oloncito market (who live next door). We’re on the east end and German Mike lives on the other end; between us is David (Ecuadorian, brother-in-law and co-owner of Insomniac with Guy).
We share a garden courtyard and it just sort of reminds me of something out of the fifties (as in “Some like it Hot” or “Rear Window” without the Raymond Burr character).  As of now, we plan on being here until at least the first of March, while our beach home is rented to various guests during busy season.



German Mike and Antonio come
over welcome us.
 Guy assured us he had a hot water shower.  Maybe because he's an ex-S.E.A.L, his perception of hot and ours are somewhat different.  The shower is equipped with one of those suicide heat devices and does get sort of hot if it is only run at a trickle…We shower “together” because the one not taking a shower has to stand by the living room fuse box to flip the circuit breaker back on every time it flips off - about once a minute.  That, and there is no cistern, so our water is turned off at 10PM every night and most afternoons for a couple of hours.  I think I'm not going to be very clean for awhile. 

Instead of a closet, we have a sturdy dowel bar to hang our clothes and a flimsy bookshelf to use as a dresser.  And I’m not sure which is more charming – the contact paper flooring in the bedroom or the shower curtains used as window treatments in the apartment.  But at least for the first couple of weeks, Todd and I have use of Guy’s television (hooked to Direct T.V.) which is perched on cinder blocks.  We’ve watched very little satellite T.V. since we got here in June, so I’ve been kind of overdosing on T.C.M. movies, reruns of Grey’s Anatomy, and the news for the last few days, and Todd is gleeful about the Bonanza episodes he discovered.

We have shown Daisy our new home so she knows where to find us. We are a little concerned that she has to cross the highway to get here, but as crazy as the Ecuadorians drive, they are good about avoiding  the dogs on the road.  However, Guy neglected to mention that our new place comes with a CAT (a petite female calico) and Daisy in NOT happy about this situation.


Daisy followed me back from the house yesterday, and while I was petting her outside the apartment, CAT came and rubbed up against my ankles like we were old friends. Then CAT proceeded to boldly walk up to Daisy’s food bowl and eat the leftovers – in full view of Daisy. And even though I was trying to ignore the cat, and making a big fuss over petting Daisy (“pay no attention to that CAT in the corner there”), the look of betrayal in Daisy’s eyes was unmistakable.  As if she thinks this is where we’ve always been when we’re not at the house – LIVING with a CAT. As far as she is concerned right now, this is bigamy.

We made the final move to the apartment a few days ago as we bid adios to three kids (Matt, Emily, and Andy) coming in for 3 days after doing volunteer work in Peru. The George Washington University doctors check in tomorrow for a month, and I am still kind of grumpy about that.

Still, it’s going to be an adventure living in this barrio (a lot more local flavor) and a wonderful opportunity to immerse more deeply in this wonderful culture since most of our new neighbors don’t speak English.

The common courtyard in our triplex

Saturday, February 19, 2011

On the Move Again

October 15, 2010

Todd and I have been renting our Olon beach home to vacationers for almost three years – it is our livelihood.  When we made the decision to move to Ecuador permanently, we were excited about the opportunity to oversee our business first-hand, rather than from 4000 miles away (although we spent as much time each year in Olon as we were able).  The flip side to this plan is that we have to move out of our home each time we have guests, a scenario that we anticipated and mentally prepared for by viewing it as an adventure to try out the various hostels in our area, and we have – for the most part – enjoyed doing just that.  In particular, we have savored the last three weeks we have spent at Casa del Sol, in Montanita (and the longest time-frame we have had to vacate our home thus far)
We got here last June with a surprisingly busy confirmed rental schedule for the “slow” season (July to November) with various guests booked for that time.  Still, we’ve been able to spend at least a couple of weeks a month in our own home between visitors.  From December until March our home is nearly 100% reserved (as it has been every year since we began), and Todd and I have been making preparations and looking for a local apartment to rent during that very busy time.
 

Juanito is the¨"go to" guy
at Casa del Sol

As much fun as we’ve had staying at Casa del Sol, I have been looking forward to being home for most of October and November (until Thanksgiving, when we have a group coming in for a couple of weeks). But Todd has been fielding a number of last minute rental requests for these next two months (typically the slowest time of year) and agreed to rent our house to three doctors from George Washington University coming for a month starting around the last week in October.  They are here for some R & R, but also to do volunteer work at the health clinic in nearby Manglaralto.  I know we can always use the business, but I am grumpy and sulking over the situation, and basically being a brat because I was looking forward to being back home for awhile. Todd is reminding me that this what we “signed up for”, and he is right; I am trying to adjust my attitude, but inwardly still begrudging the damn doctors.

The Casa del Sol Beach Bar
Coming soon!
So, we have had to step our plan to find an apartment….Looking for an apartment here is not exactly like scouting for one in…say… Laguna Niguel (which is where I last rented, years ago). Depending on location and amenities, apartments rent for around $200-400 a month in this Olon/Montanita area, and our main requirements are that it comes with a hot water shower, bed, stove and refrigerator – none of which can be assumed around these parts. And perhaps it is to our advantage to need the apartment now, rather than wait until December, on the cusp of high season when availability diminishes and prices go up.



Daisy with our
 neighbor Franklin

We want to stay in Olon to be near the house and to our adopted beach dog Daisy (who has been comfortably ensconced at our home/neighborhood during our absences – we go over several times a day to check on/feed her and all of our guests have also been marvelous about  looking after her when we’re not around. We always leave a bag of dog food for them too, and none have minded occasionally feeding her if she seems hungry.) Daisy was probably about 7-8 months old when our friend and part-time neighbor Elizabeth (from South Carolina) encouraged us to rescue her. Despite our initial hesitation about the responsibility that entailed, Todd and I now can’t imagine our lives without her. Of course, Daisy makes it easy because she is so friendly, smart, and independent…and very well-behaved. Daisy knows she is not allowed in our house or any other in the Jardines de Olon; she comfortably and happily lives outside and sleeps on our back covered porch at night.


We have truly enjoyed our last few weeks staying at Casa del Sol and getting to know the Montanita area and friends more intimately.  Earlier today as I was clambering around the tide pools at the Point, I was reminded of how often I feel like a little kid here, as I discover a new shell, a new bird, a new bug, a new plant that I have never seen. The natural beauty of this country is wondrous and I continue to be awed by every discovery. That, and the Ecuadorian people, who I hope to write more about in a nuanced way without resorting to clichés, continue to make our sojourn here a delight.

It is late afternoon, and I am sitting at a table in the courtyard of Casa del Sol, writing and taking full advantage of the wi-fi available when I heard a commotion from the beach. It sounded like someone was yelling “fire”.  TJ went out to check, came running back in for his surfboard, and took off.  I followed him to the beach. Todd was already out there, and pointed out two guys drowning in the strong surf. The waves were so forceful, that TJ and other rescuers were having a hard time reaching those distressed.  One of the guy’s head kept going under, and we thought for sure he may have already perished. After 10 tense minutes, both were brought in safely, though shook up. 
One wry observation: a crowd had gathered, and sure enough a bicycle pastry vendor showed up to sell refreshments.

TJ with one of the rescued swimmers

Friday, February 11, 2011

Murphy Takes a Seat

October 11, 2010

Heads Up!
We have been staying at Casa del Sol for the last couple of weeks while various guests are staying in our Olon home during September/October and it has been a vacation of sorts for us to relax here during the interim.  We bid adieu to the Millers and had a quick turn-around before welcoming our next guests, Diane and Armand from Louisiana (and part-time residents of Argentina). We have been looking forward to getting to know them better; Diane and I have been carrying on a lively and personal email correspondence for some time prior to their arrival.

And I thought we were
having a bad spell...
As luck would have it, the power went out during the scant 12-15 hours Todd allotted for the transition despite my objections, and as a consequence we were not quite ready for Diane & Armand when they arrived a little bit earlier than scheduled, but they graciously waited nearby until we were ready a couple of hours later. GUARANTEED - the power will go out here unpredictably at the WORST possible times.

Count on it.
Also, as Murphy would have it, Todd has come down with a bad case of gripe (gree-pay) –the flu…. It is going around now, and he has a particularly bad case and has been bed-ridden for the last few days.  I’ve been walking down the beach several times a day to Montanita to bring food back to the room for Todd. Earlier tonight during my dark, moonless, magical, five-minute ocean beach walk to get grub I very nearly tripped over a huge, washed-in Galapagos turtle (fairly common) on my way into town…Which wouldn’t have been such a big deal, except I thought I'd take a picture of it, and was wrestling with the camera settings for “dark” when the creature slung a weak “paw” (?) across my left ankle…
I swear, the powers-to-be down here are trying to give me a heart attack.

For the life of me, can't
figure how I managed to
capture a picture of this street
without throngs of people
The meal I brought back was salty, and I woke up around 4 AM with a raging, desperate thirst. Unfortunately, I forgot to replenish our bottled water supply for the room, and my choice was to stumble down 2 steep flights of outdoor stairs in the dark and suck moisture off the banana leaves or drink water from the sink…I don’t know how many of you may have experienced this level of unrequited thirst, but I chose to drink a “refreshing” glass of water from the faucet …and waited for my stomach to rebel.
But you know what?.... Nary a rumble from my tummy.  Not that I would willingly make that choice again but it is reassuring to know that local un-boiled tap water MAY work in a severe pinch (at least for us, but we have been brushing our teeth,showering, and washing dishes with it on and off for the last 3 years.and may have developed some resistance to whatever). Yes, I understand the parasite possibility too - but we have never experienced the likely symptoms.
Unfortunately, because of Murphy, we have not had an opportunity to spend more time with Diane and Armand, as we were hoping…I've enjoyed the few chances Diane and I have had to chat, and she’s encouraged and inspired me to “go for it” – in particular, to write….*
Diane, if you are reading this – thank you for the gift of confidence you gave me to start this blog, and God Bless you.

"A word aptly spoken is like apples of gold in settings of silver"
Prov 25:11



*  At the time these comments were written last October, I was just preparing to “go public” with my journal notes. I am not sure I would have had the courage to do it without Diane’s encouragement.
I am still trying to get caught up to present day entries, and will get there – but for now (February 2011): This is our peak season and Todd and I are busier than one-legged sailors in an ass-kicking contest (as they say).

Leigh
2/11/11